This kit is for the amplifier in Klipsch's ProMedia 2.1 personal audio system sold from 2012 to 2018. Klipsch produced four main variations of its ProMedia 2.1 speaker system from 1999 through the end of 2025. (The Lumina has superseded it in 2026). While externally the versions look very similar, internally, the amplifiers are completely different, and the problems they develop are also entirely different. In 2020 I developed a kit for the first generation (1999-2012), and it remains popular. Now for 2026 I am adding a kit of high quality components for the second generation. The goal is improved quality and durability. I do not expect sound quality/performance to be noticeably better, but if electrolytic capacitors have degraded, replacing them could restore performance. The easiest way to determine if you have a second generation is that it has no rocker switch for power next to the power cord (only the first generation has a rocker switch), but it still retains the round six-pin mini-DIN plug for the preamplifier control pod to connect to it. See the initial photo in this listing for what the external side of the amplifier looks like (the amplifier IS NOT INCLUDED), and the final two photos for what the internal boards look like (these BOARDS are NOT included, either. This kit is only the replacement parts). By contrast, the third and fourth generation versions of ProMedia 2.1 have a trapezoidal plug with two screws to anchor it to the panel, with two parallel rows of pins. (Some people call it a sub-D connector). Instructions with the kit will include photos and identifying part numbers. Soldering and desoldering is needed to install this kit. Kester solder is included.
The second generation can develop two common problems, and this kit offers options to address the main problem, or both problems, along with an option to also upgrade the original electrolytic capacitors in the power supply to Japanese Nichicon or Panasonic FR (low ESR) replacements. Out of nine dead second generation 2.1 amplifiers that I tried this kit on, just over half of the power supplies had two bad film capacitors and were repaired with the basic kit. Most people do not own a capacitance meter, but if you have access to one, I can guide you to measure the components you will be replacing, so you can know before purchase if your system needs this kit.
1) The basic kit includes two upgraded German WIMA high voltage film capacitors and resistor for the switch-mode power supply (PS) board to address a system going dead. (Even the control pod LED will not light). There could be other problems than for these capacitors or resistor to fail, such as from a power surge, but going forward I plan to always upgrade these three parts. I cannot guarantee this kit repairs a dead system. This is the first place I will look, though, when doing a repair. If you have only lost the subwoofer channel or only one or both satellite channels, then your system has a different problem than with the power supply's twin capacitors and undersized resistor.
2) The optional electrolytics on the power supply (PS) board are not something I automatically replace. This option is more for people who prefer to be thorough. These power supplies are continuously powered when plugged in, so after ten plus years, it would be understandable especially in a hot climate that the original capacitors' rubber seals may start to dry out.
3) Loss of sound to the satellites mightbe due to one of a pair of resistors on the amplifier board burning open. (The TDA7265B amp-on-a-chip may have failed, instead, though. Look for evidence that IC has burned). If one of the resistors fails, it will burn open, sometimes visibly. The optional pair of replacement resistors for the amplifier board are 1 watt upgraded size to replace original 1/4 watt. I have seen several of these burn out on amplifiers over the years. One is through the hole, and the other is surface mount. The surface mount resistor is larger than stock, but a photo I send shows how the larger one can be mounted .